The Sleeper

After a leisurely day by the pool I make my way to my first adventure by train in Thailand. I arrive in darkness at the well lit main railway station for trains to the north, my bags packed and my ticket ready.  Entering the foyer I am greeted by a throng of people, some families, some backpackers all eager to get somewhere - in my case Chiang Mai, a popular destination in the north of the country. The station is watched over by the ever present portrait of the King and is beautifully laid out with flowers and ornaments. Destinations are clearly marked in both Thai and English and the experience is most welcoming.  I have chosen to travel 2nd class on the 'Special Express' night sleeper. I could travel 1st Class in an air conditioned compartment but where is the fun in that?



I board Car 8 using the conveniently placed step and make my way to seat 26, I have the lower bunk
so my bags are stored at ground level in the rack provided, no climbing steps for me. Having heard lots of 'stories' I had the usual padlocks on my case and backpack and proceeded to tie-wrap the handles to the metal frame of the rack, just in case. There are lots of signs relating to the safety and well-being of passengers and, as I settled in, the number of attendants, guards and other officials of the railway made me feel quite safe. I am lead to understand that the new regime is making strenuous efforts to make tourists and the general population fell safe and happy in the country. An American who had forgotten to go home occupied the seat opposite me and we fell into easy conversation. 'Air conditioning' provided by giant fans attached to the roof of the carriage were not required on this journey as the temperature was quite mild.  I sat intrigued as to how the sleeping arrangements were configured as we departed promptly at 19:35 hours local.

As the train departed a hive of activity ensued, 3 star generals issuing bedding,
porters tidying bathrooms, and, most importantly a steward handing out orange juice and a menu should one wish to order dinner and/or breakfast. Some brought their own, I preferred to order. A choice from three set menus.  What would I like to drink? "A beer please". At this point I discovered that alcohol is not permitted on the train. "A coke then please".  I did receive something stronger but that is another story!  I was to discover that there are advantages to ordering dinner.  A short while later as the pillows, blankets, curtains and top bunks were set up the steward extracted a table top and leg from the infrastructure and clipped it together between our seats. No table; no seat as the conductors assembled the bunks by lowering the top and manipulating the seats to form the bottom bunk. Thus anyone not being served dinner had to retire, somewhat reluctantly, at about 20:30 hours.  My dinner was very satisfactory though not of gourmet standard and my travelling companion and I were able to retire at a respectable 22:30 after an interesting chat about his life in the various countries of the region.  We also engaged in conversation with the French couple opposite, this is why I enjoy trains and buses - one never knows whom one will meet.

Although this is the 'Special Express' night sleeper it actually arrives in Chiang Mai at 09:55 hours
the following morning. The sun rises early and I had been advised that the views were stunning and proved to be so. After a good night's sleep in a comfortable bunk and a hot breakfast I opened the curtains.  In many areas it is a single track line and passes through countryside which has not changed in centuries. Stations are quaint and well kept and the views of jungle and mountains are spectacular. I really felt that my adventure in Thailand had begun!

All this for the princely sum of Bhat 881.00 (about £18.00). Amusingly amongst the terms and conditions on the reverse of the ticket it states:
Animals or strong smell food/fruits are not allowed in air conditioned coaches.  - perhaps I was lucky?

View my 'The Sleeper' photo album...