Chiang Rai and the Golden Triangle
It is about 8:30 am on Thuesday the 6th January 2015, time for an early breakfast snack from a local vendor as we wait for the last of our passengers before leaving Chiang Mai for Chaing Rai and the "Golden Triangle". This was the first of two excursions which I had booked during my visit to Chiang Mai and though very interesting I would recommend actually staying around Chiang Rai for a couple of days as there is so much to see. We set off fighting 'rush hour' traffic to leave the city behind, travelling along one of the recently constructed 'motorways' cut through the natural forest of the area. After about 90 minutes we made out first stop at the natural hot springs for light refreshment and souvenir hunting if you are that way inclined.
The springs are en-route to our first major destination but formed a 30 minute distractions as we examined the refreshment stalls, the masses of silverware and the myriad souvenirs for sale. A calming walk to the rear, past a local shrine, revealed a quite area to sit and contemplate the beauty of the surrounding landscape or to resuscitate aching feet in the waters of the hot spring bubbling down from the golden Buddha at the top of the mound. We promptly reassembled back at the mini-bus to set off to the "White Temple" as it is commonly known.
On entering, women must cover their legs with the wraps provided, there is a bell which may be rung before wandering around the lake, taking in the many sculptures which depict the various icons of the Buddhist faith including death and the fight against desire. Walking over the "Bridge of the Cycle of Rebirth", the "Gate of Heaven" is guarded by 'Death' and 'Rahu' who decides the fate of the dead. Wander around with me in the photo album. Helpers are still adding and repairing to this day. In addition to the paintings, some very contemporary and disturbing, inside the temple there are the gardens and other educational buildings to explore. Unfortunately not enough time! All too soon we were meeting back at the transport for the next stage of our journey. I took a couple of photographs of road signs as we travelled in order to try and work out the route afterwards.
At last we arrive at the 'infamous' Golden Triangle. A trip on the Mekong river and a footfall in Laos. We were only permitted a short stay there, not having full visas, but I have to say that I have never seen so many handbags for sale in one place ever before. Looking at the large map of Laos there is so much to explore throughout the region, then as many do, on to Vietnam and Cambodia.
The very name of the Mekong river is synonymous with the golden triangle, war and drugs. An ounce of gold in exchange for an ounce of heroin, CIA black ops and American operations which never took place. It was an experience to see the river and travel on it around the borders of these three countries witnessing the rich casinos built, firstly on the island to replace, presumably, drug income then on the surrounding shores as the various countries syphoned off the wealth. The island is still, to this day, no-mans land with all that is entails.
Young people come to the area to enjoy the freedom of the nigh clubs not available in their more repressive home towns. All the while the peasants continue to farm the banks and fish the river both for survival and for trade whilst much larger tramp steamers ply their way back and forth from inland China all the way down to the delta in southern Vietnam. It was worth having the guide to explain and embellish the history both past and current of this unique area.
Our next stop was at the most northerly border crossing with Myanmar, previously known as Burma. I could walk up to the border but would not have been allowed to cross here even if I had a Visa. It was fascinating looking over the river as one could almost have a foot in both countries. A very busy place and much trade seems to pass back and forth here. I even discovered a far flung corner of the 'Tesco' empire, I doubt they have crossed the border yet but you never know. I also managed to cope with the local loo, one of the lesser agreeable things about travelling in certain parts of the world if you happen to have a dodgy leg. We did not spend much time here as our final destination was into the jungle to "Long Neck".
In fact this village, set in the jungle of northern Thailand, is one of several refugee homes of the Kyan. They are a persecuted minority tribe in Myanmar and many have fled south over the border with Thailand. It is self financing from tourism so, because it does not need financial assistance, lives in relative harmony with it's neighbours. By tradition girls from about five have brass rings placed around their necks which are gradually increased in number until the distinctive 'Long Neck' is formed, they are never removed. These neck rings are solid brass and extremely heavy. The culture is explained in the village and they demonstrate with a cross-sectioned neck ring using any willing female tourist what this feels like. Of course an adult of that age would have many more rings to contend with. The tribe demonstrate their culture and crafts and all of the souvenirs are hand made by them so feel worthy of support. An interesting experience in a very packed day. Hence, as I said at the beginning, a stay Chiang Rai affords plenty to do in its own right. We still had some three hours travel back to Chiang Mai! Bye the way, have a look on "wikipedia" for more information on the Kyan.
Our next stop was at the most northerly border crossing with Myanmar, previously known as Burma. I could walk up to the border but would not have been allowed to cross here even if I had a Visa. It was fascinating looking over the river as one could almost have a foot in both countries. A very busy place and much trade seems to pass back and forth here. I even discovered a far flung corner of the 'Tesco' empire, I doubt they have crossed the border yet but you never know. I also managed to cope with the local loo, one of the lesser agreeable things about travelling in certain parts of the world if you happen to have a dodgy leg. We did not spend much time here as our final destination was into the jungle to "Long Neck".
In fact this village, set in the jungle of northern Thailand, is one of several refugee homes of the Kyan. They are a persecuted minority tribe in Myanmar and many have fled south over the border with Thailand. It is self financing from tourism so, because it does not need financial assistance, lives in relative harmony with it's neighbours. By tradition girls from about five have brass rings placed around their necks which are gradually increased in number until the distinctive 'Long Neck' is formed, they are never removed. These neck rings are solid brass and extremely heavy. The culture is explained in the village and they demonstrate with a cross-sectioned neck ring using any willing female tourist what this feels like. Of course an adult of that age would have many more rings to contend with. The tribe demonstrate their culture and crafts and all of the souvenirs are hand made by them so feel worthy of support. An interesting experience in a very packed day. Hence, as I said at the beginning, a stay Chiang Rai affords plenty to do in its own right. We still had some three hours travel back to Chiang Mai! Bye the way, have a look on "wikipedia" for more information on the Kyan.
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